Nanro-hoe reconvenes to talk about Korean BBQ

The Joseon-era ‘nanro-hoe,’ where seasoned beef was grilled on a jeollipu-gol pan

That once-elegant gathering has been revived in 21st-century Seoul. Leading Korean food-and-beverage figures now come together to grill meat and talk about the future of K-BBQ and hansik culture — a meaningful Joseon-style meat party in modern dress. We joined the final gathering of 2022.

In the Joseon era, when the tenth lunar month arrived, people warded off the chill by grilling beef over a brazier and enjoying the moment together — plenty of oil, soy sauce, spring onion, garlic and chili powder alongside. It was, in effect, a “Joseon-era meat party.” Recorded in the late-Joseon Dongguk Sesigi, the nanro-hoe was enjoyed from the royal court down to ordinary households. The tool at its center — the jeollipu-gol — was a cast-iron vessel shaped like an upended horsehair hat, set atop a charcoal brazier. Meat was grilled around its raised rim, or braised jeongol-style in the well at the center — two ways to enjoy the same gathering.